This is my run down on what is cost me in fabric and notions to put this kit together from skin out and head to toe. It's always good to give yourself a budget and stick to it. Include notions because the cost of thread and ribbon and other items can add up quickly and put you terribly over budget. I didn't have a budget for this project, but I did have a goal of about $40.00 because this project is for a class *about* building good, researched garb on the cheap. Since it looks as though this has worked in my favor, I'll set a serious budget for my next kit of this magnitude.
Smock:
-White quilting muslin $2.99
Bum roll:
-All scrap with scrap fabric stuffing: $0.00
Caul:
-White quilting muslin $0.99
Kerchief alternate:
-white quilting muslin $0.99
--jewelry wire frame from scrap $0.50
Partlets:
-White linen/poly remnant cut $0.99
--lined with white muslin $0.50
-Black wool suiting remnant cut $1.50
--lined with black cotton poly scrap ~$0.50
Sleeves:
-Gold-colored polyester brocade remnant cut $5.99
-Dark blue dyed linen scrap ~$2.00
Kirtle:
-Cotton canvas 10 oz scrap from tent-making ~$3.00
--skirt lined with blue cotton duck scrap ~$1.00
--outer layer black poly cotton Goodwill $1.99
Gown:
-Outer layer maroon 300 thread count cotton sheet Goodwill $3.99
--Skirt lining Blue cotton lightweight $7.00
Thread:
-donated thread $0.00
Lacing hooks:
-hook and eyes $1.89
Lacing:
-Ribbon scrap $0.50 (to be replaced with donated luceted thread)
Hosen:
-my own hosen from other garb: use Medieval Tailor's Assistant book or the many online sources for construction methods. Scrap fabric in linen, wool, and cotton sheeting. Cut on the bias.
Garters:
-my own garters, but fabric scraps tied under the knees are what I've been using for a year.
Shoes:
-my own shoes from other garb, but shoes can be had from Lady Oren's Medieval Shoes for as low as $45.00 with shipping.
Total without shoes, garters and hosen: approximately $38.32
Total with new shoes, garters, and hosen: approximately $90.00 But shoes are a one-time purchase. And if you get a flexible style that will travel across several time periods like I did, you can use them for all your garb if it manages to span time and space like mine does. Or you can wear whatever shoes you happen to have in the closet. Anybody that cares enough to say anything to you needs to have an attitude adjustment.
Good luck!
YiStTD,
Gillian, the exhausted
Showing posts with label cauls. Show all posts
Showing posts with label cauls. Show all posts
Friday, March 7, 2008
Thursday, March 6, 2008
Flemish Garb for the class is coming together
Basically, I just need to sit down and make an organized plan for how I'm going to complete this project. Right now I feel like I'm paralyzed because I don't know where to begin.Plus I enjoy research and collecting fabrics a lot more than actually putting together the garb--even though I always love the finished product.
I figure this is as good a place as any to give myself an outline that will ease my mind.
1.) Officially rework my patterns and layouts for the kirtle, gown, caul, bum roll, kerchief and both partlets. Sleeves are fine and ready to be cut, lined, and sewn. Smock needs hemming and neck finished.
2.) Choose fabrics and notions for each item and officially designate them. Make a list of fabric and notions cost.
3.) Pattern out bodices of kirtle and gown on grid fabric--fit onto outer shell of each piece--fit to body.
4.) Pattern out one partlet on grid fabric, use for both. Allow for simple ruffle on white layer.
5.) Cut other bodice layers for kirtle and gown. Baste and fit--allow an inch for fitting. Use weaving cane to stiffen any areas with lacing loops. Finish and leave bottom open for skirts.
6.) Cut flat front for kirtle skirt, cut 2 cartridge pleat back panels for kirtle skirt.
7.) Cut 3 panels cartridge pleating for gown skirt.
8.) Cartridge pleat kirtle back panels and gown skirt panels until eyes bleed.
9.) Attach skirts to bodices--swear profusely because fitting pleats (and setting cartridge ones) is a bitch like none other. Add lacing loops and check everything for tensions--refit after crying about fitting errors.
10.) Cut and fit partlets with white linen partlet getting the small ruffle, starch, and press. Sew on a hook and eye for each closure area.
11.) Measure, cut and fit caul.
12.) Measure, cut, and fit kerchief,
13.) Wing it on the bumroll. Scraps are out friend. Make it smaller than a Elizabethan roll.
14.) Put everything on for final fitting. Be proud of myself and proud of the fact that I can now teach other people to make these and how to not wear wench gear--I HAVE AN ALTERNATIVE.
15.) Freak out with stage fright at teaching people about this class.
YiStTD,
Gillian
I figure this is as good a place as any to give myself an outline that will ease my mind.
1.) Officially rework my patterns and layouts for the kirtle, gown, caul, bum roll, kerchief and both partlets. Sleeves are fine and ready to be cut, lined, and sewn. Smock needs hemming and neck finished.
2.) Choose fabrics and notions for each item and officially designate them. Make a list of fabric and notions cost.
3.) Pattern out bodices of kirtle and gown on grid fabric--fit onto outer shell of each piece--fit to body.
4.) Pattern out one partlet on grid fabric, use for both. Allow for simple ruffle on white layer.
5.) Cut other bodice layers for kirtle and gown. Baste and fit--allow an inch for fitting. Use weaving cane to stiffen any areas with lacing loops. Finish and leave bottom open for skirts.
6.) Cut flat front for kirtle skirt, cut 2 cartridge pleat back panels for kirtle skirt.
7.) Cut 3 panels cartridge pleating for gown skirt.
8.) Cartridge pleat kirtle back panels and gown skirt panels until eyes bleed.
9.) Attach skirts to bodices--swear profusely because fitting pleats (and setting cartridge ones) is a bitch like none other. Add lacing loops and check everything for tensions--refit after crying about fitting errors.
10.) Cut and fit partlets with white linen partlet getting the small ruffle, starch, and press. Sew on a hook and eye for each closure area.
11.) Measure, cut and fit caul.
12.) Measure, cut, and fit kerchief,
13.) Wing it on the bumroll. Scraps are out friend. Make it smaller than a Elizabethan roll.
14.) Put everything on for final fitting. Be proud of myself and proud of the fact that I can now teach other people to make these and how to not wear wench gear--I HAVE AN ALTERNATIVE.
15.) Freak out with stage fright at teaching people about this class.
YiStTD,
Gillian
Labels:
bumroll,
cauls,
Flanders,
Flemish,
gowns,
kerchief,
kirtle,
middle class,
partlets,
research,
researched garb,
SUCCESS,
Tudor-era kit,
working class
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